One morning in Havana I realized I didn’t have enough “convertibles” for the day (Convertible is one of the two official currencies, mostly used by tourists), and that meant that the first thing I had to do that day was to exchange more money. I still had to find the place to do it, I got my first Cuban money in the airport as I arrived, and as I found it the lines were huge. Tried elsewhere, only to find the same long lines, in the end I was able to get my money from an ATM, although I still had to wait for the power to be turned on (obviously those things don’t work 24H in Cuba). Finally I was able to get inside a shared taxi and meet my fixer, that was already waiting for me at an Havana suburb. As I told all these unexpected morning detours, and explained my huge delay, I got a simple answer along with a big smile: “Well, that’s the kind of thing a Cuban must handle everyday…”.
Cuba is changing, has been slowly and timidly changing for some time, most noticeablely since Raul Castro succeeded to his brother. The propaganda is still there, and everywhere, but great murals with the iconic and catchy messages like “Revolución o Muerte!“ are less common, replaced for others with a much more “hands-on“ approach to the country‘s future, there‘s no need to keep asking to die for your country. The Special Period is long gone, now there’s a timid opening to private businesses and not have to rely on stamps to go to grocery, and even the Internet is slowly being connected. The future is bright, or at least seemed to be at the time these photos were taken, it was just weeks before the open of the US embassy, a time where there was an glimpse of prosperity from the big neighbor. And now that Castro era is fading out it’s uncertain what that future will be.
Despite all that everyday routines are somehow the same, and often requiring some creativity to get them running as smooth as possible. It’s not only those old 50’s cars that miraculously driven up and down the streets, but also the crumbling homes that once were grand knowing to neat the lines for the grocery store to get the best produce. Probably the best way to handle those is with that smile of someone watching the sunset on the Malecón.
Small Lada from Soviet period passing by decaying occupied houses at the Vedado area.
Boys fishing in the waters of the Havana bay at Regla area, very close from where the small ferry that comes Havana Old Rown docks.
Working out in a warehouse converted into a gym in Centro Habana.
Boys using an abandoned pier close to Cienfuegos marina to dive on a hot Sunday.
Playing domino in the street by the Malecón, rum was included in the mix.
Waiting for the opening time at a non-state grocery store in downtown Havana. Despite not having food shortage issues, finding better quality produce could mean that getting to the grocery before everybody.
A nanny with the two children at her care at Havana. The two children aren’t siblings.
Solares, the derelict and partially abandoned houses occupied by families that make each division into their home. This one is an old hotel in the center of Cienfuegos.
Inside an abandoned house in Havana.
Elderly man in his house life in Havana. He used to share this house with brother, until he passed away.
Kitchen inside one of the apartments of an occupied “solar” at the Vedado area.
Woman outside her home on an abandoned hotel in Cienfuegos.
An school building occupied some decades ago, now in one of the old classrooms a grandmother talks about the granddaughter’s school grades.
A room split between two men in Cienfuegos, the scorching heat of July explains those fans.
Man smoking a cigar inside his house in Trinidad.
Solares, the derelict and partially abandoned houses occupied by families that make each division into their home. This one is an old hotel in the center of Cienfuegos.
Mother and child going down the stairway of a building at Vedado
Kids running back home on a late afternoon at Regla area.
A classic American car parked outside the big arcades that are so typical of Centro Habana.
Leave a Reply